Belinda’s road trip to Zimbabwe
Belinda, Graham & “OB” Mikadi Beach
Sunday 30th August, 2009
Belinda is my (Graham’s) landrover and we left Mikadi on Sunday 30th August, 2009 for Iringa on a road trip to Zimbabwe via Zambia.
Just outside Iringa we encountered the Danish road works, and having been delayed by a lorry overturning on a steep mountain for over an hour, I was getting worried I would not make The Old Farmhouse, which is another 54kms from Iringa before nightfall. You do not want to be on a Tanzanian road after dark trust me!
About 20kms before Iringa I noticed the temperature gauge going into the red and what looked like steam coming from the front of Belinda. I pulled over lifted the bonnet to discover the radiator was leaking, we later discovered it had a couple of direct hits from large stones from the Danish road works – thank you Denmark! What to do? It was starting to get dark and all I had was some mineral water, apple juice and beer! I found a local woman sitting outside a mud hut and asked if she could find me some water, which she did filling my mineral water bottles. Between my mineral water and water from the woman we managed to get enough water into the radiator for me to attempt getting to a village/civilization after Belinda had cooled down.
I started off again not knowing how long I had – NOT long! I limped onto the forecourt of a very closed service station wheupon the owner pulled up beside me – what a coincidence! He was checking on his garage and immediately helped me to fill & bleed Belinda’s radiator. We then established that whilst she was leaking quite bad she would make Iringa if I took it carefully. I offered to pay the guy but he refused and would not take anything to drink either it being Rammadan.
I now gingerly proceeded saying to myself that if the temperature gauge remained where it was when I reached Iringa I would continue the extra 54kms to The Old Farmhouse, it was and I did! About 20kms from The Old Farmhouse the gauge starting moving the wrong way again…towards the red. I pulled over allowed Belinda to cool down and then from a gerry can I had taken along from the garage filled the radiator again – it was now past 8pm and pitch black and I was literally in the middle of nowhere. Not pleasant I can tell you. Belinda & I continued and after checking we were on the Mbeya road with a Nun continued to the The Old Farmhouse.
Upon pulling up to The Old Farmhouse we were met by Mark the Manager, and his gorgeous dogs. I explained our “little” problems and even though his restaurant & kitchen were closed Mark very kindly found me something to eat – thanks Mark.
The Old Farmhouse is amazing - an oasis in a desert. I slept soundly even though it was cold by Dar es Salaam standards only 10c. www.kisolanza.com
Next day (31 August) we met Zimbabwean farmers Belinda & Bote who farm flowers, leasing land from Kisolanza Farm, which is the working farm where The Old Farmhouse is located. We also met Gus a Zimbabwean Paprika Farmer and Agronomist. He is trying to find more Paprika to process at his factory in Norton in Zimbabwe. Farmer Belinda’s bush mechanic helped get Belinda’s radiator out and then Farmer Belinda (we have to distinguish between the Belinda’s now) allowed her Toyota & driver to accompany me into Iringa to find a radiator Fundi to try and fix said radiator, we had also arranged with Gus to guide us once we got into Iringa. We found Gus and he directed us to a Fundi he knew of in Iringa. The Fundi’s workshop was beside a shop and down a service alley so I would never have found it without Gus’s help. Thank you Gus. After starting off at TSH80,000 we agreed a price of TSH20,000 and the promise it would be ready one hour later.
Gus then showed me around Iringa while the driver stayed waiting for the Fundi and guarding the Toyota.
One hour later the radiator was ready and we loaded it onto the Toyota and set off for The Old Farmhouse. It was quickly fitted by Farmer Belinda’s able bush mechanic, tested and seemed fine. I then decided to get a COMESA Road Insurance (called a yellow card for those not interested) which meant another trip into Iringa but also a chance to fill up with diesel and test the radiator for the off to the Zambian border Tuesday 01 September morning.
I managed to get my COMESA Insurance with no problem and this will save me on Insurance they try to levy on you in Zambia. It is also valid in all SADC countries so definitely wortwhile getting. My next stop was the service station to fill up. Whilst being refueled I noticed the radiator was leaking again! So I rushed back into Iringa to the Fundi to see what could be done. He took one look at his handy work and decalred Belinda’s radiator “buggered”!. So we managed to get some stuff called rad seal which got me back to The Old Farmhouse but it’s a temporary measure I know. The following day I ring Dar Landrover dealership for advice and options. They tell me best option is a new radiator which they will have to source in Dar and ring me back. Later that day they tell me they have found one and it will be on the Scandanvia Bus from Dar to Iringa the next day.
That night I meet 4 British people one couple and two singles travelling from Kenya to South Africa to raise money for Tenteleni a charity setup by Sarah married to Phil. They were travelling in a landrover called Larry. That night Larry and Belinda were parked side by side and we cannot be sure BUT we think there is Landrover love in the air….check out Tenteleni’s webside comment:
September 2, 2009
Larry fell in love last night with a fellow landy called Belinda. He was sad to leave in the morning and a bit sluggish!
We drove hard all day to the Malawi border where some dodgy money exchanges took place in return for Larry’s entry to Malawi. Within minutes we saw lake Malawi and headed to the bar at Sangilo sanctuary lodge to celebrate Gareth’s big 34 birthday.
Sundowners of Malawi gin overlooking the lake tasted amazing after 326 miles!http://www.tenteleni.org.uk/
Next day I set off for the garage Dar Landrover recommended to fit my new radiator expecting it to arrive around about 1pm. I find the garage and discuss with them that once I am certain the radiator is coming I will ask them to remove the old one to save time and allow me to at least continue onto Mbeya about 350kms and the largest town before the Zambian border. It seems that nobody can confirm anything from Dar so with a mechanic I set off to the Scandanvia’s booking office where I discover the bus will only arrive at 6pm! It actually arrives at 9pm (yes the Danish road works again!) and has no radiator. Thank God I had decided to stay in Iringa and not go back to The Old Farmhouse.
We have now had confirmation that the radiator is on the next days (Thursday 03 September) Scandanvia bus….
At long last the radiator turns up on the Scandinavia bus arriving 2 hrs late at 8pm. I quickly, to the amusement of the bus staff, jump the queue and sign the received goods form and bolt for The New Ruaha Lodge where I lock the radiator in the room and head to Hasty Tasty the ONLY place in Iringa you will not get food poisoning! The previous night I had given The New Ruaha Lodge restaurant a try….one chicken korma returned untouched! I cannot describe what it tasted like as to be honest I have never tasted anything like it to compare it!
Next day I chance a fried egg load up with bananas and head to the garage to get the radiator fitted. I am all packed and ready to head towards the Tanzania border and a place called Tunduma, to be described more fully later.
I arrive at 7.58am precisely ahead of the owner of the garage and am then waiting while they “prepare” the workshop. This takes about 20mins and consists of coffee break etc etc. One slimy Indian guy who had already introduced himself as a Mr Fixit said he would personally take care of Belinda and that I should remain in the office whilst the work was completed – I don’t think so. I spoke to the owner who allowed me to remain with Belinda and watch/supervise the work. Slimy did nothing but try and hand the mechanic a spanner – just as I thought. The mechanic changed the radiator & thermostat in 25mins including bleeding and testing…a result. Mechanic and assistant got a tip Slimy got nought.
On the road again at 9.30am and a long slog to the border, there is not much to see between Iringa and the border. I arrived at about 3pm to a huge queue of Lorries; decided to fill up diesel at the only service station. As soon as I opened the door to help the pump attendant I was besieged by about twenty guys all jostling to speak to me. We had money changers, guys who would help me through border procedures, layabouts, and professional thieves. This is truly Ali Barber and his forty thieves I decide. Eventually I grab a young man called Kelvin who flashes an ID card at me, I tell him to get into the land rover and lock the door. All hell has broken loose outside as his buddies still have not got their cut of the Muzungu (white person).
The paperwork at this border is mind blowing! Carbon Tax, Road Toll Tax – you name it the Zambian’s have a Tax for it! Kelvin and his “boss” Raphael definitely helped speed things up but it still took over 2hrs to clear. Everything is broken in the Customs office – no photocopier working, no computer working etc etc.
Having escaped the border hell I get back on the road and head to a place called Kings Highway, a campsite with some chalets run by a Christian organisation based in South Africa. You can get a clean chalet for USD$20 per night – no food on premises though. I left at 4.30am and made my next stop Forrest Inn, which is about 150kms before Lusaka.
Forrest Inn is a well run establishment with good food and nice chalets. I arrive just after lunch and in time to see the second half of South Africa vs Australia rugby match…SA lost to some dodgy refereeing so I was told from the Afrikaners watching the match!
Another early start, it’s Sunday and I arrive in Lusaka as the sun is rising. It turns out to be the perfect day and time to travel through Lusaka; I clear within one hour and am soon on the road to Kafue next stop Kariba!
Belinda Siavonga Road – note medicinal Heineken!
When we arrive at the Siavonga Border post (Zambian side of Kariba) some youngsters approach me with the “old” Zimbabwean Dollars….yes the trillions etc….I did buy some but think they maybe good colour photocopies..but don’t care as hats off to the youngsters for initiative. I clear both sides in 20mins including Belinda having her photo taken on Kariba Dam Wall. Being back “home” is always a special time and this was no exception. I love Zimbabwe.
I stayed in Kariba for 4 days and it was so perfect. My friends have a lovely place overlooking Lake Kariba and to wake up to the cry of the fish eagle every morning and kingfishers there can be nothing better.
Friends lawnmower, Kariba, Zimbabwe
Kariba Dam Border Post Zimbabwe
The road from Kariba to Harare was good with very few pot holes and it was interesting to see the new road Tolls in operation and charging $1 per car to help maintain the run down roads. Once you enter Harare on the Kariba road the years of neglect from a dysfunctional Town Council come into play. No water, refuse collection, road & traffic lights maintenance plus of course the constant power cuts. The good thing about all of this is these are all cosmetic things and with a strong Town Council and funding can be rectified very quickly. Whilst I was in Harare people started to get water, some for the first time in 2 years! So things are changing and people do have more hope which is a wonderful thing to witness. The politics still have a long way to go but the people seem to be confident to just get on with life and where they can fill in the gaps, which anywhere else in the world would be done by their Government.
One of my reasons for coming to Zim was to visit Environment Africa’s projects as I am a Trustee of Tree Africa in the UK. So I contacted Charlene (Charlie) Hewat Founder and one of the “Rhino girls” who cycled from London to Zimbabwe to raise money for Rhino Conservation. We arranged to leave Harare for Victoria Falls and Charlie would give me a lift but I would have to find my own way back to Harare as she was continuing on to Lusaka in Zambia to give some lectures. We set off at 6am and drove via a short cut from Kwe Kwe to Lupane. This road was both tarmac and heavy sand and as I had never travelled this road before enjoyed the adventure.
Charlie (Charlene) with Namo outside Environment Africa’s Victoria Falls Office
Charlie and I arrived in Lupane to find Cliff (EA Manager) in the middle of a Clean Up Campaign in the centre of the rural community of Lupane. It was exciting to witness the work EA do at a grassroots level and see the effectiveness of this amazing organisation started by a girl with a Vision and Passion and love of Zimbabwe. Truly inspirational.
Environment Africa clean up campaign Lupane Zimababwe
From Lupane we drove to Hwange and visited the Painted Dog visitors centre just past the turn off to Hwange Airport. Here they have a rehabilitation and information centre on the work they are doing tracking painted dogs in the Hwange area. What was outstanding was to see the distances these amazing animals travel – up to 50kms in a 24hr period. From here I drove to Vic Falls where we met Action Africa’s Manager Nicole. It’s Nicole’s and her husband’s house Charlie and I were to stay in whilst in Victoria Falls. The next day Charlie went on a Clean Up Campaign with Namo the EA Vic Falls Manager. Namo is also responsible for the whole region so is tirelessly travelling to the various projects and guiding his staff to achieve meaningful results for poor rural communities. This work also involves working alongside other NGO’s like Save The Children etc. The following day we travelled to the rural communities, so once again I could see EA’s work at grassroots. We visited a young girl who was a widower with a young child. With EA’s support on organic farming methods this girl was able to buy two cows from the profit achieved on a field of sorghum. This is empowering people and communities and is at the core of Charlie and EA’s activities. For me to see little oasis’s in the middle of this dry arid bush truly fired up my desire to do more for this organisation and I will.
School children at the Painted Dog training centre, Hwange, Zimbabwe
Namo, Environment Africa’s Manager Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Widower & her daughter helped by Environment Africa’s zero tillage programme
Widower with two mombe’s (cows) bought with the profits of previous years sorgum crop
My trip back to Harare was via Bulawayo where I stayed with a friend and caught a lift with another friend to Harare the following day. I also for the first time managed to visit the Bulawayo Museum, which I recommend.
One day spent in Harare visiting EA’s Head Office and catching up with mates before it’s back to Kariba where we plan to go on a houseboat for a few days and see the renovations Victoria Falls Safari Lodge have done to Bumi.
Dear Graham,
Howsit?We really like your website and would love to take up your generous offer to stay at Mikadi beach possibly a week to ten days in the Dec hols.I would like to get the “wormfarming” concept up and running at the lodge and new farm as i believe this will be a great symbiotic relationship.However we are to say the least short on the almighty dollar,so will let you know closer to the time if we can get there.
Many thanks
Wally from Noah’s Park ZIM.